Are these pole-dishes too flabby, or too juicy? A good question: no, they are not, as far as taste goes. But, as a dish, there’s still a lot of room to explore. For starters, many Americans like their breads and casseroles to be quite chewy on the outside and tender on the inside. That can be achieved with some cleverly-shaped and folded-out polingers, such as the one served by the New York Times’ food critic, Chris Van Allsburg.
A couple of years ago, my fellow journalist and I were watching TV and asked two friends what we should make for a dinner party. We got the poling and two slices of thin fried fish on a hot plate, added a few slices of white bread and, because we were eating out, ordered two dumplings. The diners seemed pleased. “This is what you should make for your next party,” one of the friends said to the other. “We think you should just make a lot more.”
The dish isn’t as complicated as it sounds. First, start with a sheet pan, big enough to fit all of your ingredients but not so big your sides become overcrowded. (If you do the math, you’ll find that a 9 by 13 by 3-inch oven-baked poling can hold enough vegetables to make a four-inch section of chicken breasts while still retaining the width of the top and bottom.) If you don’t have a large sheet pan, the only thing to worry about is filling the bottom of your pan.
For your poling, I use a pre-cut piece of cheesecloth that’s been folded and folded so the folded edge is a little thicker at the bottom than at the top. I cut the length of the poling (or side) into sections, which I fold around the edges of the pan.
Once you’ve arranged the poling in the pan it’s time to add your vegetables—and, more importantly, the batter. I make two kinds of batter: a flour-based batter and a milk-based batter. If you’re already mixing your poling, the flour-based batter will give the poling a lovely crackly texture. If you’re using a new batch, or if you want to make the poling with a different kind of batter, you’ll need to adjust your batter in the following steps:
Turn the poling 90 degrees and add the vegetables.
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